Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 08, 2012

Where we were

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About a week ago, we were eating bibimbap 39,000 above ground. Thanks to Asiana Airlines, the multiple (and surprisingly delicious) meals kept us distracted from the seemingly endless flights. The only good thing about such a long journey is that we had the time (oh, we had the time), to reflect on our recent trip to Thailand, with side trip to Cambodia this time.

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Each trip back to my home country is a bit different. They say that even if the place has not changed, it is you who have. Bangkok remains a growing megatropolis. You can find anything, do anything, eat anything, in the city. But as always, I found it most refreshing to leave the city behind, to find the Thai gems that can only be found in the countryside, or by the sea.

This time, we went beyond the countryside. We went beyond the country boundary. We went to Cambodia.
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I grew up hearing about Angkor Wat. To a little girl, it sounded like a magic kingdom, far far away from reality. As an adult, visiting this ancient world heritage site has been up there on my list of places to see (before I die). In reality, it's actually not too terribly far from Bangkok (within a day's drive and only an hour flight). And when you are there, standing in history, you realize that it is beyond a magic kingdom.

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And that Tonle Sap is beyond any ordinary lake.

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There were many memorable sites and sounds, colors and tastes. Back in Thailand, the beaches were pleasant and warm with creatures and waves just for the kids' delight. The grown ups found peace and quiet and family time to reflect and cherish for a long while to come.

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Tuesday, January 11, 2011

An Essay from Above

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Another sleepless night. Another blog post about our recent visit to Thailand.

I wrote this note during the long plane ride, crossing multiple time zones, and the vast Pacific ocean. Around me, people were doing all kinds of things to entertain themselves from the ennui of being stuck with 500 other people, in a small seat, for what seemed like an eternity.

The children were asleep, tired from their last day by the pool, full from their first of several airplane meals. Jim, who was sitting on the other side of our four-seat section, looked like he was enjoying a movie. I tried to go to sleep, but thoughts and images ran through my head of the last three weeks in Thailand.

I pulled out the laptop, and wrote down these words:

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It may be too soon to reflect, and yet I fear that if I don’t jot down some thoughts now, they may disappear with the mundane-ness of every day life, back in the cold, lifeless midwestern city that we are calling home. The whole experience will gradually feel like a dream.

Even now, as I write this from 35,000 feet above sea level, the Thailand visit could have been a dream. Thankfully, I have some proof: over 1,000 photos taken almost every day of our 3 week visit, plus the sore on my neck and back, remnants from the two-hour Thai massage received on our last day of the trip.

“So tight!”, I can still hear the Thai masseuse exclaimed under her breath as she tried to soften away my knotted, tension-filled neck and back muscles. She ruthlessly pressed, rolled, squeezed on these muscles until I let out a vaguely tortured sound. “Hurts?”, she would ask in the normal demure Thai way. “Sort of,” I would bluntly lie. The pleasure-pain experience of receiving Thai massage from a good Thai therapist is too good to pass up. The white lie was worth it. Besides, knowing that I will not be tortured in this blissful yet therapeutic way for a long time, so I sucked it up.

Superficially, this visit to Thailand was not unlike our previous ones (the fourth visit for our seven year old children). We spent most of the time with my family. We spent most every meal together with them, talking, laughing, commenting on the diverse and delicious (and too much) food that lay in front of us. We visited my almost centennial grandmother who always adds a few extra years to her actual age (because she is Chinese); we spent a few days by the ocean where the children lived and breathed the salt water and became one with the sand.

There were also days spent by the poolside, hours looking for the primitive lizards that nonchalantly co-exist with the residents who live or hang out by ponds and lakes in and around Bangkok. There was even the biannual visit to the oldest Stupa in Thailand, Wat Prapathomjedi in Nakhon Pratom province.

Amidst the old and the familiar, the traditional and the familial, we experienced new and different things on this trip as well.

First of all, we had a fully lit and decorated, Christmas tree that my parents purchased out of their love for their grandchildren (growing up, our family never had Christmas trees before). The children even got to decorate for the season with tinsels and shiny balls and ribbons (also a foreign concept in our household). We played Christmas music on Youtube and celebrated Christmas eve and Christmas day with Thai food. The kids discovered presents under their beds on Christmas morning. Despite being in a tropical, non-Christian country, we had a jolly time during the holiday season.

We also experienced the sadder side of life when my uncle, my father’s older brother, passed away during our first week into the visit. It had been a long time since I last saw this side of the family. We all attended the cremation ceremony, the last day of the weeklong funeral process. As I entered the airy outdoor hall of a temple, lined with chairs and attendees, I saw familiar faces that I had not seen since I left Thailand 22 years ago. I was reminded of the last part of “Cinema Paradiso” when Toto also returned to his hometown, also for a funeral (of his own mother). In that scene, he, too, spent some time recognizing the aged faces of the people he used to know so well. They were older now, the older ones much more wrinkled and frail looking. The young ones had become grown ups, some had children in tow.

I remember watching this scene knowing that some day I may experience it myself. And sure enough, there I was, at a funeral back home, finding myself in the same position that Toto did. I greeted everyone with a Thai ‘wai’ as usual, making mental notes of the ones I recognized, all the while fascinated at the reality of life, and death, and the linear nature of time.

There were, of course, questions posed by our curious children. Where do people go after they die? What does it feel like? What came out of my mouth were almost the exact words that I remember my elders told me as a young child when I posed the same questions. I surprised myself that I was not more straightforward in answering their questions, now that I have learned a few more things about life. I didn’t even say, “I don’t know!” Instead, I painted the same picture of a serene, happy place for the dead ones. I told them about heaven. I reassured them that I would be around for a long time, so that they would not worry. They seemed content with my responses, which put me at ease, more at peace with the reality of life than usual. At least, for the time being...

Monday, January 10, 2011

Remembering...

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I am about the face the real first day back to 'normal' life: work, school, chores...the unavoidable, but essential duties that make life proceed.

It's 4:17AM, however, so in some ways, I still have time to dwadle. I can still pretend like when the sun rises later on this morning, we can all head to the sea, and hear the orchestra of the birds and watch the coconut trees sway in the morning breeze.

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Once the afternoon arrives, and the tide starts to go down, the children will have an expansive classroom of oceanography. Momo would hum as he stalks wind-crabs or wait for them to emerge from their tiny holes; Dara would skip into the shallow of the tide while announcing whatever was in her head to the world. If she found something interesting, she would run over to us, full of excitement, as though she had just found a block of gold.

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Jim and I would lay on the much coveted beach chairs, next to some extra large, non-English speaking, too burned to move, Russian tourists who attempted to steal our chairs earlier that day. But we would be absent from that world, immersed in our books. I would continue to enjoy the trip through Europe and Asia with Paul Theroux as he retraced his steps from his earlier trip (and book) he called The Great Railway Bazaar, only to rename it: The Ghost train to Eastern Star.

Now, that's better. A little reminiscing during a bout of jet-lag goes a long way. I am now ready to pay bills, make lunches, await the sound of little feet coming down those stairs (hopefully in two hours). I am ready to face the new day.

Wednesday, January 05, 2011

The Island

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We just spent a blissful few days away from the hubbub of the big sprawling city that Bangkok has become. Koh Chang, the second largest island in Thailand, in the province of Trat, is a good 4 hour car ride away, plus a short ferry trip. It was the first visit to this mountainous island for all of us.

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The first full day, the kids literally spent all day on the beach. From early morning until after sunset, the kids played, swam, treasure hunted. They had not spent anytime by the beach since we left California in July, so it was a treat well-deserved.

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The grown ups were treated to the beach as well, the sea-breeze, the seafood, and of course, the Thai massages by the beach.

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There was also a brief lunch visit to the other side of the island...beach-free, but it is dotted with small fishing villages inhabited by the locals.

We are well-rested, well-fed, and ready to spend the next 48 hours enjoying the rest of our time here in Thailand.

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

A Christian Nook of Bangkok

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We had a pilgrimage of sorts today for Jim who wished to visit the very first Catholic church in Thailand.

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That church, the Immaculate Conception, was built in the mid 1600s by the Portugese who sailed and settled in Thailand.

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The church started out as a small building, more like a house than anything else. From there, a larger church was built in front of it.

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Today, the church still stands tall, amidst a small Vietnamese Christian community in the older part of Bangkok, not too far from the Grand Palace.

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The church is just nestled into the village, next to the Chao Praya River - the main thoroughfare for Bangkokian for many centuries now.

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We walked by a lady decorating what looked like a sponge cake.

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"This is what the Christians give to each other during the Christmas season,"
she said. She even offered to cut the kids a slice to taste. We politely refused, but I did snap a photo of this pretty (gaudy?) cake as a souvenir from our little adventure.

Saturday, December 25, 2010

The Stupa

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The River House is in the town of Banglane, the province of Nakhonpathom, just north of the capital. When we go there, it is a ritual to visit Prapatomjedi, the oldest stupa in Thailand.

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I have been going here since I was younger than these youngsters, long before our River House existed. I remember hearing the myths about the temple, the little caves that surround the circumference of the stupa, the birthday buddhas that stand in a row. Now these children get to do the same things, under the same warm sun rays.

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

The Beast

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This prehistoric, cold-blooded beast showed up by our house yesterday. He had a few friends with him frolicking about as well. Can you imagine our son's excitement upon seeing their little heads floating through the water? Oh, it was better than a bag of Halloween candy!

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These monitor lizards are considered "lucky" by the locals. Well, I think it may be more of a Chinese superstition, but it's been part of our culture for so long that their nickname in Thai is : Tua Ngen Tua Tong (translated to be Silver and Gold).

They are common residents at ponds and parks and waterways around here. People seem to co-exist with them without much trouble...except if you have a yappy little dog who start provoking the beast... soon enough that little dog may become history...

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Tropical life

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Thailand was forecasting to have the "coldest winter in 30 years", before we arrived. Well, so far, it's as balmy as ever, with the day time temperatures hovering 80s and 90s. This is a quite a (nice) shock to our system that was trying to survive in frigid, below zero degrees days in the mid-west.

Everywhere I walk in the garden, I am hit with a new wave of perfume from several blooming flowers. Life keeps on living here in the tropics; no need for hibernation.

The kids enjoy living the coat-free, flip-flop life for now. And ice? Here, ice only goes from the freezer to a glass of water, thank you very much. None of that stuff on the wind shield of a car, or the front steps of the house! Can you tell I am not missing winter...at all?